Method for protecting, dyeing, and waving peroxide bleach-damaged keratin



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XR. 2&392 756 United States Patent METHOD FOR PROTECTING, DYEING, ANDWAV- ING PEROXIDE BLEACH-DAMAGED KERATIN Peter Flesch, Philadelphia, Pa.

No Drawing. Application October 6, 1955 Serial No. 539,033

4 Claims. (Cl. 167-871) I or bleached with oxidizing agents,particularly peroxides,

certain changes occur other than merely altered hair pigment. Thesechanges are manifested by alterations in the load extension curves, byan increase in the brittleness and permeability of the hair shaft, bydullness and by an altered reactivity of the hair towards dyes, coldwaving preparations and the like.

Commercially, hair is oxidized or bleached with 30% hydrogen peroxidewhich has been diluted with an oily diluent to a peroxide content ofapproximately and ammoniated to a pH of about 9.5. Hair so bleached hasbeen observed to behave as follows:

(1) When subjected to warm water, nitrogenous components and bleachedpigment are repeatedly extracted thereby indicating that damage to thehair takes place each time it is washed or rinsed.

(2) When treated with conventional thioglycollatecontaining cold wavingpreparations, such for example as those disclosed in the McDonoughPatents 2,577,710 and 2,577,711, the hair often becomes brittle andbreaks off causing patchy or dilfuse baldness.

(3) When treated with commercial hair dyes, the hair takes up the dyesrapidly and unevenly. When treated with a composition including amixture of a hair dye and a thioglycollate, the hair becomes matted andbrittle and the dye uptake is frequently selective.

These reactions occur particularly with the certified colors or coal tardyes disclosed in the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, vol. 4, pp.2873l3 (1949) and particularly FD&C Orange No. 1, Red No. 1, Red No. 4,Violet No. 1, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 6, D&C Black No. 1, Red No. 33,Yellow No. 10 and Ext. D&C Reds Nos. 8, 10, 11, 13 and Yellow No. 1.

The present invention has for its primary object to correct theseundesirable characteristics of keratin, especially human hair, which hasbeen subjected to oxidizing agents. It is based on the discovery thatcorrection can be obtained by treating oxidized keratin, including humanhair, with acid solutions of pH 2.0 to 3.8.

Here it should be noted that while oxidized keratin is afiected by theacid treatment, unoxidized keratin is not. Also, the acid treatmentgives long-lasting protection as evidenced by the fact that a singletreatment will last about ten weeks from one oxidative bleaching to thenext if the hair thereafter is not washed more frequently than abouttwice a week, which is rather uncommon.

It is known that peroxides oxidize the disulfide linkages of keratinand, among other things, sulfuric acid is produced. Thus the isoelectricpoint of the hair components may shift towards the acid side therebyincreasing the solubility of the keratin in water. While the mechanismof the protective effect of high acidity (low pH) upon oxidized hair isnot known, it is believed that it is a CC relasted to bringing theoxidized keratin nearer its isoelectric point.

Another object of the invention is to provide a cleansing agent orshampoo having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 which protects as well as cleansoxidized keratin, especially human hair.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method of dyeingoxidized or bleached keratin, especially human hair, with certified,non-toxic, coal tar dyes containing thioglycollates in which the hairdoes not become brittle or matted and in which the dye is taken upevenly.

And yet another object of the invention is to provide a method ofpermanently waving bleached keratin, in-

cluding human hair, with cold waving preparations containingthioglycollates in which the hair does not become brittle.

The acidity of a bleached hair treating preparation, such as a solution,cream, or lotion, can be adjusted to a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 with the use ofconventional buffers such as glycocoll-sodium chloride-hydrogen chloridesalts, potassium phthalate-tartaric acid salts, and the like. Thesebuffers are commercially available, as for example at Harleco Company ofPhiladelphia, Penna.

The cleansing preparations or shampoos for use on oxidized orperoxide-bleached hair comprise a detergent which will not lose itssolubility and foaming action at and below a pH of 3.8 and buffer saltsin sufiicient quantity and proportions to obtain a pH of 2.0 to 3.8.Several illustrative, but non-limitative examples of elfective DuponolPC is a detergent of the Du Pont Co. which is derived from technicallauryl alcohol.

Renex 30 is a. detergent of the Atlas Powder Co. which is apolyoxyethylene ether alcohol.

The process of dyeing oxidized or peroxide-bleached hair in accordancewith the present invention is carried out as follows. A 3.0 percentaqueous stock solution of mixtures of several of the aforementionedcertified coal tar dyes is prepared, the dyes being chosen to yield adesired overall color. An aqueous stock solution of calciumthioglycollate is prepared, preferably 3.5 percent based on the freeacid. The ammonium and other salts may also be used. A solution orshampoo buffered to a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 is first applied to the bleachedhair. Then a mixture of two volumes of the dye solution and one volumeof the thioglycollate is applied to the acidtreated hair within one-halfhour of mixture and allowed to remain on the hair for at least 30minutes. The hair is then rinsed with water and washed with slightlyacid shampoo to arrest the action of the thioglycollate.

The process of cold permanent waving of oxidized or peroxide-bleachedhair in accordance with the present invention is carried out by firstapplying to the bleached hair a solution or shampoo buffered at a pH of2.0 to 3.8. Thereafter the cold waving is carried out in a conventionalmanner and with commercial thioglycollate solutions as disclosed forexample in the aforementioned Mc- Donough patents.

While preferred embodiments of the invention have been described herein,it will be understood that minor variations may be made in the hairrinses, shampoos, dyeing and permanent waving processes withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appendedclaims. The essential feature of this invention is the fact that thetreatment of oxidized keratin, especially peroxide-bleached human hair,with a preparation having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 arrests damage induced byoxidation and simultaneously preconditions the hair so that it can bedyed and permanently waved in a manner not heretofore attainable.

I claim:

1. A method of protecting peroxide bleach-damaged keratin, includinghuman hair, against aqueous extraction of nitrogenous components whichcomprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber an aqueous solutionhaving a pH of 2.0 to 3.8.

2. A method of dyeing peroxide bleach-damaged keratin, including humanhair, with a certified coal tar dye preparation including athioglycollate which comprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber anaqueous solution having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 prior to the application ofthe dye preparation to the oxidized keratin.

3. A method of cold permanent waving of peroxide bleach-damaged keratin,including human hair, with a thioglycollate-containing preparation whichcomprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber an aqueous solutionhaving a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 prior to the application of thethioglycollate-containing preparation.

4 4. The method of claim 3 wherein said aqueous solution is maintainedat a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 by a bufiering agent selected from the classconsisting of glycocollsodium chloride-hydrogen chloride and potassiumphthalate-tartaric acid.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS2,645,595 Lipman July 14, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS 1448/52 Union of SouthAfrica June 10, 1952 1,098,369 France Mar. 2, 1955 OTHER REFERENCES HairRinses, D. and C. Ind., vol. 69, No. 4, October 1951, p.515.

Cobb: Mod. Beauty Shop, January 1944, pp. 52-53 and 108-110, esp. 108.

Schimmel Brief, No. 229, April 1954.

Peck: D. and C. Ind., vol. 72, No. 1, January 1953, pp. 46, 47 and129-133.

.Tannaway: Hair Treatment Prep., Perf. and Ess. Oil Rev., June 1938, pp.220-223, esp. at p. 222, col. 2, 2nd and 3rd paragraphs.

Hilfer: D. and C. Ind., October 1949, pp. 394-5, esp. p. 395, col. 1.

3. A METHOD OF COLD PERMANENT WAVING OF PEROXIDE BLEACH-DAMAGED KERATIN,INCLUDING HUMAM HAIR, WITH A THIOGLYCOLLATE-CONTAINING PREPARATION WHICHCOMPRISES APPLYING TO THE OXIDIZED KERATIN FIBER AN AQUEOUS SOLUTIONHAVING A PH OF 2.0 TO 3.8 PRIOR TO THE APPLICATION OF THETHIOGLYCOLLATE-CONTAINING PREPARATION.